Slow Supper: Big Table

Written by Hal B. Klein on


Last night, Brooklyn Brewery chef Andrew Gerson collaborated with Chef Kate Romane of E2 and Kate Romane Productions for a "Big Table: Slow Supper" dinner in the John V. Heimeman Co. warehouse in Lawrenceville. (Here he is, welcoming guests.) Chef

Thommy Conroy and Quelcy T. Kogel of Harvest and Gather transformed the raw space into a candlelit indoor picnic, and Lone Pine String Band’s bluegrass jams served as a live soundtrack for the evening. The $75-per-person event was a benefit for Slow Food Pittsburgh.

The chefs collaborated on a five-course dinner as part of Brooklyn MASH, a 12-city international tour sponsored by Brooklyn Brewery that’s intended to celebrate the food, music and culture of the host city while at the same time building brand loyalty for the brewery.

The MASH tour first visited Pittsburgh this past October, when the event co-hosted the first dinner held in Downtown’s Butcher and the Rye.

This time the tour included a Justin Severino supper at Blackberry Meadows Farm, Chef Gerson teaching the art of beer pairing at Marty’s Market, a roundtable discussion on craft beer with Brooklyn Brewery co-founder Steve Hindy and several Pittsburgh brewers at Church Brew Works, and stand-up comedy at the just opened Rowhouse Cinema in Lawrenceville.

MenuLast night’s menu (at left) was a bright transition from spring to summer. Sour cherries added pop to the scallop-and-apple crudo. Course two (my favorite) took advantage of a late pea season; the earthy, yeasty, barrel-aged Brooklyn Wild Streak was a funky counterpart to the sweet green dish. The meal grew heavier with course three’s grilled sausage, braised fennel, and spinach emulsion; crisp Brooklyn Local 1 helped cut the richness of the sausage and fennel. Course four was a transition into summertime featuring grilled lamb chops (on the grill below), turnips, charred onion emulsion, and a giant bowl of salad greens. Kate Romaine’s doughnuts — a brunchtime E2 staple — rounded out the meal, dressed with a tart apple caramel and spiced cherries; Brooklyn’s Cuvee Noire, 10.6 abv and aged for six months in bourbon barrels, provided a potent compliment.

Another interesting beverage, mixed into a pre-dinner cocktail, was the shrub from Wild Purveyors (at bottom).

Lamb 1

The Pittsburgh MASH has two more events on Saturday: homebrew education at 2 p.m. at the Copper Kettle Brewing Co., Greenfield, and the “MASH Bash” at 8 p.m. at South Side's Club Cafe with Speedy Ortiz, Legs Like Tree Trunks, and The Lopez. Both events are free, but have limited space, so get there early.


Hal B. Klein photos

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